Our Journey to Taleghan

After a leisurely breakfast, we set off from the elegant suburb of Geytarieh, situated to the very north of Tehran. Today, Bijan’s son Ali, is kindly taking us to see his home in Taleghan. Bijan is the infamous, pint-sized, old-army-friend of my husband, Jamshid. He is always going a million miles an hour and always quick to tell a joke.

In Iran it is compulsory for young men, aged 18 and older to complete two years of army training. They are able to defer the training as long as they are studying in University and Bijan and Jamshid have been friends ever since their first meeting just over 50 years ago.

The scenery as we approach Taleghan is breathtakingly beautiful.

Even though, raining heavily at times we catch glimpses of the snow covered mountains, the stunning Taleghan lake and the colourful roofed houses of Ista Village.  In the Village of Ista, time has come to a stand-still. They have neither, running water, nor electricity. The village folk refuse to have National ID cards and the children are home schooled.


colours, all extremely hungry.Ali’s house is directly opposite a small green village mosque. We park outside his gated property and enter through a small wrought iron gate with 3 ducks on and go inside the property only to be greeted by 6 cats in differing sizes, shapes and  Ali is a gentle, kind-hearted young man and has 2 more dogs and 6 cats.


The house is a 50 year old house and quite a shock to us coming straight from a very modern Tehran apartment. We boil the kettle over a gas heater and make tea. We then make Tabeh kebab over the same gas heater with rice for dinner. After many cups of tea and conversation we head to the village for some fresh barbari bread.

Fresh Coffee

We buy 5 loaves then head to the labanioti for some fresh unpasteurized milk, sar-shir, honey and rose petal jam. The sar-shir (meaning cream from the top of milk) is incredible in taste and texture.

The owner of the shop insists on making conversation with me and give me a present of doogh! HE then tells my husband he is a lazy man as we don’t have any children. Clearly this town is not used to foreign visitors.

We sleep under a corsi and are toasty warm. A corsi is a table covered in quilet blanket with an electric heater fastened to the underside of the table.

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A Sweet Breakfast

We wake and have a delicious breakfast of Barbari toasted over the heater with the sar shir, honey and rose petal jam and numerous cups of tea. We boil the unpastuerized milk for 20 minutes and allow to cool before giving to the cats,

We then put on knee high welly boots and release the 2 older dogs and go for a walk near the river. We see many beautiful coloured river stones in colours of turquoise, browns and creams. The dogs run freely and clearly enjoy themselves.

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